Complete guide to the Pompeii Ruins

I grew up in Torre Annunziata, two stops on the Circumvesuviana from the ruins, and over the years I’ve taken more relatives and friends inside than I can count. I’m not a licensed guide and I don’t pretend to be: what follows is what I say the night before, while someone’s digging out the voucher from their inbox.

How big it is, and why that changes everything

Pompeii isn’t a monument with a queue in front. It’s a city: forty-four hectares of streets, houses, shops and courtyards, with the original paving underfoot. To see it all, you’d need at least two full days, and almost no one has that. The average visit lasts two or three hours; you can cover the main sights in about four, if you walk with a plan in mind.

After that, you’re just walking. The July heat rises from the stones, the toilets are far away, and your legs give up long before your curiosity does. So the useful question isn’t how much can I see, but what do I choose to see: I’ve ranked the sights by priority in what to see in Pompeii.

Ticket or guided tour

This is the biggest decision you’ll make, and it’s one you make before you leave. Without someone to explain it all, much of Pompeii remains just a beautiful wall: you’ll grasp the Amphitheatre and the Forum, but the shop signs, tavern counters, and house rooms will pass you by without saying a thing.

The two-hour guided tour solves exactly that: a group of no more than twelve people, an archaeologist guide, headsets so you can hear even from the back, and you skip the queue to get in. The ticket with an audio guide does the opposite—and does it well: it’s valid for a full day, the audio guide is available as an app or a physical device in five languages, and it lets you stop wherever you want for as long as you want. I recommend it if you’ve already been to Pompeii, if you’re into photography, or if you hate lining up behind an umbrella.

Then there’s the third option: a private tour with an archaeologist. Three hours, just your group, the western part of the city with the House of Menander and the House of the Vettii, and nine languages available. It’s the most expensive option and also the highest-rated, because you can interrupt and ask questions. If you’re still torn between the first two, the clear-cut comparison is in guided tour or audio guide; if the third one interests you, check out the private tours.

Which entrance to use

There are three entrances in use, and they’re not interchangeable. Porta Marina is the natural choice if you’re arriving by train, because the Pompei Scavi station on the Circumvesuviana Naples–Sorrento line is just a short walk away. Piazza Anfiteatro puts you right in the eastern area, in front of the oldest known Roman amphitheatre. Piazza Esedra is the convenient entrance for groups and the recommended access to the Antiquarium.

If you’re driving, the supervised car parks are near Porta Marina and Piazza Esedra, and they fill up during peak hours: you’ll find a spot before ten, but after that, it’s a gamble. To see which entrance works best for you, check out the three entrances to Pompeii.

The pace of a real visit

The park opens at nine all year round. From October 15 to March 14, last entry is at 3:30 PM and it closes at 5:00 PM; from March 16 to October 14, you can enter until 5:30 PM and it closes at 7:00 PM. It’s closed on December 25 and January 1.

In high season, mornings belong to cruise ship excursions, so afternoons are much quieter. In winter, the opposite is true because afternoons are short: it’s cold and damp, but the site is as empty as you’ll never see it. I still recommend April and May, then September and October. The full breakdown of seasons is in when to visit Pompeii.

There’s a café near the Forum inside, drinking water and restrooms in several spots. Bring a water bottle—there are fountains outside the entrances to refill it. Large backpacks and luggage aren’t allowed: the commercial cloakroom is near the Pompei Scavi stop. There’s no dress code, but the paving stones are uneven and rough, so wear closed, comfortable shoes and light clothing. The rest is in what to bring.

Mistakes I see most often

The first is showing up without a ticket on a Saturday in May. On peak days, tickets sell out and the line at the ticket offices moves slower than anyone expects. The second is underestimating the name on the voucher: the ticket is named and timed, and they check for matching ID, so don’t hand it to your sister-in-law at the last minute.

The third is picking the first Sunday of the month because entry is free and finding half the region ahead of you. It happens, and it’s only worth it if you leave early and have patience. The fourth is squeezing Pompeii, Mount Vesuvius and Herculaneum into the same afternoon: Herculaneum takes an hour and a half or two and a half and is much quieter, but it needs to be taken at a relaxed pace, not at the end of a long day. How to plan them is in Pompeii or Herculaneum.

If you need to decide now

First visit, short on time, want to understand what you're looking at: a two-hour guided tour. Been before or prefer your own pace: a ticket with an audio guide, valid all day. In Naples without transport and want the crater too: the full-day combo with Mount Vesuvius, including transport and return around five. The six options side by side are in all tours.

Ready to book?

If you’ve already decided, the two-hour guided tour is the smartest starting point for a first visit: small group, skip-the-line access, and an archaeologist guide. If you’d rather explore on your own, check out the ticket with audio guide, or compare all the options.

Frequently asked questions